I entered India from Bangladesh across the border post at Dawki into Meghalaya province. Manghalaya is probably quite a good introduction to cycling in India. It is a fairly prosperous state and the roads are comparatively quiet. As you get deeper into the more populous areas of the country driving definitely becomes more of a contact sport.
The road climbs steadily from the Dawki border crossing. This is the first high ground from the Bay of Bengal and is one of the wettest areas of India. There are many streams as you climb up the hills. In contrast to the plains, this area of India was very green and lush. There was more climbing than I anticipated and reaching Shilong turned out to be a bit optimistic. I set up my tent in front of the village church at what I think was the village of Tngon Phlang. I only had very limited money I was able to change with the customs official at the Dawki border post. I obtained a few essential supplies from the village shop. The local children were very interested and came over on their way home from school. In the evening it absolutely lashed with rain and I was invited to stay with the family that lives next to the church. I slept in the kitchen by the fire accompanied by the cat. From Tngon Phlang there was quite a steep climb through the village. The next place I came to was more of a sizeable settlement. I was quite relieved to see a sign saying 24hr ATM so I turned in. It was closed but the shopkeeper said, hang-on, I will open it for you. With money in my hand I could go and get a few snacks to get me to Shilong. As it turned out, most of the climbing was now done.
Shilong is the administrative centre of Meghalaya and featured quite a collection of colonial era buildings in the centre of town. I stayed in a guest house a little out of the centre of town. After a couple of days in town I headed east through the West Jaintia Hills. This was very scenic with little traffic.The state border was easily identifiable. The road went from fairly smooth tarmac to loose stones the size of railway ballast that was quite difficult to cycle on. Dropping down from the hills it became noticeably hotter. The first town I came to in Assam had a hotel but the proprietor was away and it was closed. I thought there may be something when I got to national highway 627 and pressed on. As there was nothing I pitched my tent on grass between the village shop and school at Rongagorah. The family of the village chief were at the shop and invited me back to stay with their family a couple of km along the road. They led the way, driving slowly on their motorbikes so I could follow. By this time it was dark so good job I had the dyno lights. The family and the villagers were originally from Nepal. I received a VIP welcome and a hearty dinner. During the evening we felt the earthquake that did significant damage in Myanmar. We moved out of the house as it was possible to feel the tremor building; fortunately by that distance the magnitude was small and it was possible to return to the house directly. From Rongagorah I headed north east to Kaziranga National park. I had to wait a day as the visit by the British Royal family meant that the park was closed to visitors. The road along this stretch had been completely relaid with quite possible the most pristine tarmac in all of India. The road crew had gone rather overboard on the road calming. Usually about 5 sharp humps in a row – edge to edge and at frequent intervals. I could have done with a bigger Camera in Kaziranga as all I managed was a few specs of disappearing rhino and elephant bottoms.